I first saw a wild elephant 28 years ago, and was struck, more than anything, by its serenity. It was an old male, and was happy to stand there eating grass and being appreciated by a car full of people. We then got a flat tyre, and the ranger with us got out to fix it with another guide. I was desperate to help but wasn't allowed, so I sat and stared. It was magical - the 'beast' radiated calm and reassurance, and I was mesmerised. The next day we saw the same elephant. It l